Very subjective topic, I know. Not trying to stir up any shizzle, honest.
Read some posts re: filters in the FJ09 threads; some seemed to work fine, others leaked. Wanted to post what I've found so far re: my 900 GT. Only tried 3 filters so far. More to follow as time and miles pass by.
I changed the oil at 300 miles to hopefully remove whatever tiny metal shavings may have collected. Taking the GT in for its initial 600 mile service tomorrow. After that, I'll be doing'em as I've done on all my bikes.
I've used Purolator PL14610s on my former FJR. Fit great, no leaks, no issues at all. Thought I'd try one on my GT. Threads and overall length were fine. But, it bottomed out without sealing tightly to the bike's filter base (sorry for the sketchy nomenclature; feel free to correct me as necessary). Anyway, after filling with fresh oil and running the motor to circulate it, I noticed a very slight oil weep that showed up whenever I used a dry paper towel (and then my dry finger) to wipe around the filter/bike mating surface. The weeping never stopped. I was bummed.
Then I tried a Purolator Boss PL14612. No difference. Also bottomed out against the bike without sealing enough to prevent leaking during the subsequent motor start and circulation exercise.
Then I tried a Mobile 1 M1-110. Fit great, sealed up tightly and no leakage. I was happy.
Then I started wondering why the Purolators didn't seal on the GT like they did on my '13 FJR. So, I measured the distance between the filter gasket and the filter baseplate at the point nearest the filter's threads. I kept it simple and laid a steel rule across the gasket and used a 6" rule to measure the depth in mm. I'm sure there's some human tolerance slop in this method, but I was looking for "big picture" measurements as opposed to super-precise numbers. That said, these crude depth measurements were definitely different.
Here's the 3 filters I measured.
FYI...I didn't measure the M1-110, as I only had one of each filter and I wasn't gonna remove it from the bike. But I did measure the OEM Denso filter's baseplate depth and compared it to the 2 Purolators.
Anyway, the 14610 had the shallowest depth at 5mm and was the least concave of the 3 filters in the pic. The Boss 14612 was a tiny bit deeper at 6mm and marginally more concave than the 14610. But...the OEM Denso filter baseplate was 9mm deep and wasn't so much concave as it was actually "recessed" from the filter's gasket. The Denso's baseplate was essentially flat, and noticeably uniformly flatter than the varying degrees of the Purolator concave profiles. Plenty of room that enabled the filter to seal tightly to the bike's filter base without bottoming out before establishing a good seal.
Don't know why the Purolator's didn't work on my GT; I just know THAT they didn't work. I've read some posts where they fit some FJ-09s just fine, and leak on others . . . pretty strange to my simple mind. Anyway, the M1-110 fits and works fine on my GT. I'll measure my next M1-110 and see how it stands against the OEM Denso's baseplate depth, just for reference's sake.
Some other filters that I may be trying when the time comes are the Hi-Flo 148, the NAPA 1356 and the Bosch 3323. For now, I'm just glad I found an aftermarket filter that seals tightly and doesn't leak.
Sorry for the long post. Thanks for your patience. Will see how other filters measure up (or down, I guess) as time passes.
Yep, I'll likely stick with OEM. Tried this experiment out of old habit and never being able to leave well enough alone. Must be that "old dogs and new tricks" syndrome, I suppose. One day I'll learn . . .
I. Currently using the Boss PBL14612 without issue but I think it might be an older version before they made the base more concave. Next I'll try the Fram XG7317, supposed to be a good filter and is the same for my car so if it works out I'll buy in bulk.
I usually stock a year supply of filters for my cars... Bosch 3323 for the Honda and Wix 51365 for the Subaru. Both are on the 'compatible' list. I tried the (longer) 3323 on the bike, and the flange makes contact before the gasket has a chance to seal properly. I will give the Wix a go next change. I cringe having to dish out $20CAD for an OE oil filter. Not big money, but a rip-off none the less.
Well I lied up above. When I did my filter / oil change yesterday I pulled off a Wix 51358. I replaced it with a Purolator PL14612 (the Boss version). I'll keep an eye on it to see if seeps. It felt like it made a solid seal and the rubber o-ring is pretty damn squished so we'll see.
...Next I'll try the Fram XG7317, supposed to be a good filter and is the same for my car so if it works out I'll buy in bulk.
That's the filter I used on my FJ-09, use on my Honda NC700X & Honda CR-V (it's specified for the CR-V.) It's a bit longer than the applicable Fram motorcycle filter and a snug fit on the Yam, but increases the total oil capacity. Never a leak issue with it.
It's a well-known issue that many auto oil filters changed design of the base of the filter structure over the past couple of years causing them to no longer seal on bikes when they did so before. Folks have even snapped pics of opening two of the same filter pulled from the shelf with the different designs. And, some of them leak on FJRs. There's even a guy on the FJR forum that sells new junctions if you really, really, really want to use such filters. Anyway, it's a roll of the dice unless you check.
I used the Bosch's on my bikes for many years but lately have been using Hiflo so wasn't even aware of the above issue until threads started popping up on the moto boards I visit.